Monday, September 28, 2009

Ferry Ride to Sumba



As soon as we stepped foot onto the boat we were weaving our way between chickens, building materials, and countless boxes with locals piled across the tops of them. A slight panic swept through me as I saw the slender passageway leading up to the ladder. We sidestepped our way through beetle nut chewing hawkers selling snacks with wide stained red smiles. Jess and I climbed up the staircase, hardly able to squeeze through with our bags and surfboards. Once we reached the next floor we were even more apprehensive, there was no space to turn or sit or stand....the smoky room was dark and chaotic. There we families layered out like a double decker sardine can. We went to the next ladder hoping we could pay for a room on the upper deck. No such luck. Immediately after climbing the latter I was told to head back down,which at that moment was impossible, as I tried to explain that there were too many people in my way, out stepped one of our acquaintances who we shared a Bemo (small van) with while leaving Nemberala. Relief swept through me. He helped us communicate with the captain, but there was no way he was going to allow us to rent a room. I thanked our friend and made light hearted jokes about the adventure in which we were about to embark, and what a story it would be once finished.

Back down the stairs we went into the unfamiliar life so normal to the Indonesian people. Every inch of the room was claimed as someone's sleeping or storage area. Once again we felt lost and on the edge of hopeless (where were we going to rest during this two day boat ride?). A small voice asked "can I help you?" I turned to her...."yes! please!" And so it was, we made a new friend of whom we could not have been more grateful for. Her name was Washtea. She gave us an area to put our bags and to sit. She told us about her ministry preaching and teaching at a Christian church turned into a high school for students on the Island of Savu (our 1st stop). She told us of her love for Jesus, and affirmed His faithfulness. I really enjoyed visiting with her. At only 26 years old she looked 19, but all 25 of her students (14-17 yrs. old) call her Mother. She was a blessing to us, a true hero of our trip.

That first night was intense in every way. Hundreds of people were laying all around us, there were movies and Indonesian love songs blaring all night from a speaker five feet away from where we lay. The smell of clove cigarettes wafted over us, and the constant rise and fall of the ship was only avoided when we got an hour or two of precious sleep. The ocean was a deep cobalt blue almost black, and the moon illuminated the the wake of the boat to a brilliant ivory. Jesse spent about five hours leaning over the rail of the ship watching the sea, nauseous. Another passenger didn't make it to the rail and vomited all over one our bags. Every time I woke up I was struck, "is this really happening, are we seriously on this boat?" To fall asleep I would talk to the Lord, making a game of complementing His goodness until I could sleep again. I can't imagine what it was like on the bottom deck. Around 3:00 am, the roosters started to crow, undeterred by the change of scenery. At 4:00 am we reached Savu, our first stop, and said goodbye to Washtea, then watched the sunrise. The second half of our trip was actually enjoyable. It is strange being so far out to sea. There is nothing in any direction but the sapphire ocean. that night I watched the moon rise and looked out at the southern cross. We arrived in Sumba at 1am after 36 long hours. By 3 we were asleep in a bed on dry land in Sumba.

We decide to do a little bit of sight seeing the first week and a half that we are here. Today we took a bus to western Sumba. This island has the least western influence of Nusa Tenggara and the strongest tribal culture. It is famous for it's horse breeding, ikat weaving, megalithic tombs, and sacrficial burials.

Everywhere you go in Indonesia, there is always someone yelling (or blurting) out "hello mister!!". Or "where are you going mister!!" But then, when you look at them or reply in any way, the kids especially, run away giggling. It is very different here to say the least. That is all for now. Love to all Jessica

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